Baan Kwan Chang |
||||
| ||||
|
Along a winding asphalt road on Koh Chang, Thailand's second largest island, our Land Rover transports six fellow tourists and me to Baan Kwan Chang by way of Khlong Prao Beach, a white, sandy beach now dotted with new building projects including resorts, hotels, and a whole host of shops. As a result of all the construction work, I barely glimpse the impressive sea views along the way. Koh Chang is undergoing massive development as a result of government policy to turn it into a special administrative zone for tourism. Public money has been ploughed into the island displacing the once pristine nature, which, just eleven years ago coexisted with local communities but is now pass, particularly by the seaside and paved sidewalks, which seem to be disappearing in the rush to develop. In fact, these occasional stops have a purpose; they are intended to allow tourists an opportunity to witness elephants feeding themselves in their natural environment; such is the hidden beauty of the natural surroundings at Baan Kwan Chang. The paved road is about to come to an end, although we still have some way to go along a dusty track dotted with potholes that challenge the Land Rover and turn the mood of the trip into that of a safari. Anther turn, and our vehicle begins climbing the mountain before halting at a bamboo pergola - entrance to the Home of the Elephant Keepers. As soon as the driver cuts the car's engine, forest sounds take over; calls of wildlife, birdcalls, and the sound of leaves rustling in the breeze. But it is the thrashing noises'frorn a different direction that catches our attention. We leave the car and follow the driver where, a few meters away, we discover the source of the unusual sound. It is the elephants! Two giant pachyderms with whi rling trunks are smash i ng pineapples agai nst their forelegs; hence the strange, thrashing sounds we had heard earlier. As the elephants enjoy their meal of pulped pineapple, a woman leads us to a long table where welcome glasses of cool water await us. I become immersed in the peaceful ambience of the place. Below the thick, green canopy of the forest, creepers wind around ancient rubber trees providing fertile ground for wild orchids and aristolochia (vine plants). Barringtonia petals and leaves from several betel trees transform the forest floor into a floral bedspread. Ahead, four elephants, framed against the backdrop of the moun¬tain, are feeding on the fruits of the forest. Only the wooden fence sets us apart. The elephant keepers' lodges, simply made from mundane material such as weeds and mats, are behind us. After a short briefing about the lineup of our activities, our group follows the elephants to the nearby ravine for their bath. This really marks the beginning of our tour of Baan Kwan Chang. A fellow tourist joins a keeper in bathing Cherry, a cow elephant, in the cold, running water. An elephant doesn't have skin pores to easy body heat and its large frame tends to retain large amounts of heat in the body. The only heat ventilator in the curve of its toenail seems hardly adequate for cooling such as large beast. Accordingly, elephants and high temperatures are not bosom friends, so plenty of thick shade in forests is a welcome sight. Lots of water also keeps them cool and happy. The sight of these giant pachyderms taking a bath proves irresistible; snapshots are in order. The lumbering movements of these huge creatures at bath time delight onlookers who are able to observe their antics at close hand. Bath time over, we follow the elephants back to the elephant camp. After a brief rest it is time to ride the elephants along a narrow trail that cuts through thick undergrowth and pomelo orchards. On the way, the mahouts stop every now and then to let the elephants feed on bam¬boo, grasses and wild orchids by the wayside. It is an amazing sight watching these huge creatures tearing up tall bamboo canes with their trunks then devouring leaves and all in one action. In fact, these occasional stops have a purpose; they are intended to allow tourists an opportunity to witness elephants feeding themselves in their natural environment; such is the hidden beauty of the natural surroundings at Baan Kwan Chang. Rin and Peed, two young mahouts at Baan Kwan Chang, speak English and can communicate well with foreigners. Being young, they are able to pick up certain words in German, Swedish and Danish, which they use to entertain tourists throughout the journey. Before going back to the elephant camp, we have an opportunity to put into practice the theory of controlling elephants that we picked up along the way. My feet are kept busy tapping the ears of my elephant and group cries of "hurr. .. hurr. .. " seem to drown out all other sounds in the forest. When we get back, workers at the elephant camp are waiting and help us dismount from our elephants. By this time, some reward for the elephants seems in order as a gesture of appreciation for the great experience we have just undergone. My elephant seems to appreciate the huge bunch of bananas he casually throws down his throat with a calculated swing of the trunk. Our reward is a chilled coconut juice provided by workers that proves most refreshing as we take a well-earned rest after so much activity. Conversations with my fellow tourists confirm my own impression that everyone is highly satisfied with their experiences at Baan Kwan Chang; so much so we decide to record our pleasure in the guestbook prior to our departure. Flicking through pages of the guestbook it seems other people arrived at the same conclusion that regardless of nationality, age or gender, everyone can have a delightful time during a visit to Baan Kwan Chang. |
